We’re now well underway in our
ICS placements here in Palestine – and what an incredibly sobering experience
it’s been.
Upon mention of ‘Palestine’ you could be forgiven for instinctively conjuring
images of unrelenting violence and misery inflicted on an indigenous people. Whilst
this may often be the case, it’s not an entirely accurate assessment of life in
the occupied territories. The Israeli occupation is seen rather than spoken
about; its presence permeates ordinary life like the tear gas that lingers
thick in the air, burning slowly as opposed to igniting furiously. So, despite
this endless nightmare, Palestinians have adjusted and found normality in the
madness; a beautiful nightmare.
The dream begins every dawn with
the soothing melodic sounds of the call to prayer as the Ramadan fast begins
against the backdrop of a stunning sunrise. It’s here the day starts for the
majority of Palestinians, although fortunately for my colleagues and I, we’re
afforded a few more hours before our placement at the Palestinian Farmers Union
(PFU) begins. Having spent the first weeks acquainting ourselves with the
organisation and its objectives, we now feel comfortable in engaging with the
challenging tasks that lay ahead. In a concerted effort with our local
Palestinian volunteers, we’ve undertaken various roles and projects that range
from continuing the efforts of previous cohorts to pursuing uncharted territory
in the field of agriculture, the beating-heart of the Palestinian economy. These
range from social media management, providing a local and international
platform seeking to highlight the plight of farmers, to drafting extensive
funding applications to finance projects designed to alleviate the harsh
conditions the occupation imposes on the agricultural sector. It can be as
daunting as it sounds, and the obstacles – from bureaucracy to the physical
impediments the occupation imposes – can often be disheartening. Yet,
appreciating the significance of our efforts, and a yearning for some justice,
keeps spirits high and minds focused.
Outside the office, there’s an
infinite wealth of mesmerising beauty, history and culture that promises to
occupy (no pun intended) the wanderer for days on end. I began this journey in
the Old City of Jerusalem, a place that truly encapsulates the senses, and
quite frankly defies all description.
A melting-pot of thousands of years of monotheistic civilisation stands proud and inviting. Bustling markets proffering the wildest fruits and artistic designs jostling for your attention, intoxicating scents of spices and perfume and cobbled pathways brimming with frenzy. But, perhaps most captivating of all: the simultaneous fusion of the call to prayer from the besieged al-Aqsa mosque, the sounds of synagogue klaxons reverberating across narrow tunnels and the ringing of the church bells, threatening to overwhelm. It’s blindingly clear to see why they call this the Promised Land.
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